It doesn't appearance like cylinder 4 has been getting such a great time lately. Coolant has clearly been getting in, and provides 'crystalised' inside thé cylinder. It't not very apparent in the image, but there's a large 'blob' of coolant sitting down on top of the wear out valve (mainly because well as the Iittle 'poofs' óf it which are clearly noticeable). Canister 4 is certainly shiny, whilst the rest of them are usually lined with carbon. Every combustion chamber is damaged, and there are breaks between the consumption and exhaust system valves simply because nicely.
There is proof of the cooIant in the exhaust manifold simply because properly, suprisingly mostly from chamber 3. The exhaust system a lot more on cylinder 3 will be missing very a large piece of it's mating surface area. The turbo offers a big crack on the exhaust side. The intake manifold is full of oil and gunk. Hi Tumelo Yip, AMC can be certainly the method to move. Prices from Gemini Parts: Bare - R5,500 excl. VAT Complete - R8,500 excl.
Cylinder head buggered??? KZN1## series cars with the 1KZ-TE are prone to cracking the head. Almost every vehicle will crack its head if you cook it. The Official ARP Web Site. The following material is intended to provide a brief overview of the metallurgical considerations that, daily, influence the design and production of the most reliable fasteners in motorsports. Cylinder head buggered??? KZN1## series cars with the 1KZ-TE are prone to cracking the head. Almost every vehicle will crack its head if you cook it.
VAT Just about everywhere else I've checked is usually more expensive. Victor Reinz gasket kit - R788.60 excl. VAT Cylinder-Head Bolts - Ur285 excl. VAT Not sure what else we're nevertheless heading to require. Trying to decide between bare or total head.
Not certain about how to obtain the valves óut of the aged head, and worried about it perhaps being a lot of work to get the shims best. I imagine we could try HeadZone for thé build-ovér, but it máy nevertheless be useful to simply get the comprehensive new head. Werner, thanks a lot.
I have got some household assisting out with great tips. Hi Dane Those pictures would probably suggest that the motor is damaged, I wouldn't travel it if I had been you:-/ My (current) concept on why these engines crack brain is quite basic: Bumpy heat submission.
The 'back again' of the head (cylinder 4 part) is definitely getting sexier than the entrance, in one or even more settings of motor procedure (nonproductive, revving, thermostat open up, thermostat closed). The thermostat only adjusts the 'average' temperature of the head. So whilst it may end up being maintaining the regular heat range at 82°M, the top may become (as an illustration) 72°Chemical and the back again 92°D (or worse). Or the entrance could properly be getting held at 82°C and the back again is just getting hotter because it's not really really getting any coolant blood flow at all. Fróm what I'vé go through, the brains on all these motors crack at the back (cylinders 4 or 3). It'h apparent from the héad-gasket that somé work has happen to be produced to immediate coolant flow towards the back of the héad, by blanking óff the coolant flow at the top and after that having increasingly larger holes towards the back.
The pump and coolant shop openings from the head are all at the top, so this would encourage coolant stream around the front side of the héad. For anyone eIse thinking if their 1KZ-TE head is cracked, right here are usually the symptoms we had been having: - Difficulty beginning. Edit: Still having some trouble starting, even after the cylinder-head replacement. Probably down to fueI-pump / injectors.
Big white smoke/cloud of smoke at startup. Edit: Still getting a bit of a puff of smoke cigarettes at frosty begin (observe above). Coolant loss (out overflow container presumably, some through the motor as properly). Only recently do this turn out to be bad more than enough that the vehicle would begin overheating after around 400kmichael of driving, expected to the excessive coolant reduction. Rough nonproductive after startup (just started occurring lately).
Pressure test revealed communication between the cómbustion chambers and air conditioning system. No essential oil in coolant ór coolant in essential oil (communication appears to end up being between exhaust store and chilling system). In situation anybody is asking yourself, I'michael one of those men that purchased a vehicle after the earlier owner had been 'clever' sufficiently to 'quickly obtain rid óf it' when théy noticed that there had been head complications (without stating anything to mé about it óf program). The vehicle didn't have as much energy as I recalled these engines having when I drove one quite a even though back again. I initially supposed head problems owing to coolant loss, but some men at a radiator location handled to encourage me that there has been nothing wrong with the vehicle, therefore we went it like thát for a while nevertheless until the coolant reduction became serious good enough to result in the temp measure to start moving.
Fast suggestion for any additional DIYers dealing with this sort of work for the initial period: The stud bolts on the cylinder head are really easy to remove (probably only finger tightened at primary produce). I for some or additional reason supposed that these had been going to become the tightest matter on the héad, but that wásn't the situation at all. The studs on the intake side are certainly eliminated by just using two nuts and locking thé one against thé additional. I went and purchased an E8 Torx socket to eliminate the ones on the exhaust side, but I believe that they could most likely be taken out in the exact same way as those ón the intake side.:) The studs between the turbo and exhaust manifold were a different story however. Y10 Torx socket, and some actually good power, definitely needed there. I just loose and retightened them to split up any corrosion, in situation I need to get rid of the turbo at a later on stage. Not that this information is actually of make use of to anyone eIse, but we'vé decided to leave the turbo become for today as it is certainly apparent that it provides been worked well on relatively lately (certainly new nut in one place, stay was not reinstalled) - therefore we'll clean everything up and put it back again jointly, and after that check out after a several 100kmeters for how very much essential oil there is usually in the consumption system (assuming everything works after we put it back again jointly!
Hi Werner I have got no concept. Will be there maybe anybody more proficient who can reply to this? Perform you think that the harm is severe more than enough to justify replacing of the block? I should mention that all the cylinders have got a sort of a little widening chamfer best at the best (if that can make any sense.). I'm busy washing out the intake manifold at the moment.
Well, possess ended up for the previous two times. Insanely unclean - like 5mmeters of greased essential oil caked onto the inside of it. Any tips for washing from anybody?:). Relating to cleanup of caked-on fat oil, my (relatively excellent ) spouse came up with the right after (she will be also responsible for the crankshaft-pulley elimination mentioned earlier btw): Vegetable essential oil. It appears counter-intuitive (tó me at very least) but it works brilliantly. Mix in some coarse sodium as an abrasive (I believe it probably assists chemically simply because nicely) and it's even much better.
The matter is, drinking water doesn't blend with oily stuff. Oil combines with oily stuff. Make-up 101 apparently (I'michael told there can be something called 'pre-cleaner' for getting rid of make-up, which is definitely oil-based).
The essential oil dilutes/dissolves the oil. Most of this can after that actually end up being washed out with drinking water, and all you're also left with will be a slim level of veggie oil - which can be cleaned out off relatively easily using normal household cleaners (I'michael perhaps producing this sound like a little much less work than it is usually - it's still a lot of work, but it's a.lot. less difficult than anything else I attempted). Actually if you didn't get all the vegetable essential oil off, I personally wear't thoughts getting a little veggie essential oil on my engine components. I don't believe that it'deb do any harm heading into the combustion procedure either (create sure to clear out all salt even though!). What I put on't would like is large chunks of horrible sticky grease-stuff going through my bránd-new cylinder-héad.
The option can furthermore be used for cleaning your fingers, and (if you're also not putting on gloves) is also a great deal nicer on your hands whilst washing the engine parts. Similarly, you don't have to worry about it 'consuming' any plastic-ey/rubbery parts or anything. Other factors which were suggested had been oven-cleaner, dráin-cleaner, and á bicarbonate-of-sóda / vinegar mix (believe volcano task ). Anybody have got any some other ideas?
Is definitely this maybe a well-known technique to éverybody but me? Hów is certainly the cleanup done appropriately? (acid solution?) Edit: Did not remember to mention - would suggest cleaning mainly because much crud as achievable out manually 1st - i.e.
Fingers / screwdriver / whatéver. A high-préssure (drinking water) cleaner does not function nicely (initially) - it simply redirects the crud to the part of the element where it's probably most challenging to obtain to:). I regulary make use of vegetable essential oil to clear my hands from oil and essential oil if I do not possess hands cleaner obtainable. Regarding the block.
It is usually tough to discover specifically from the photos but it appears as if the pitting will be furthermore on best of the mass where the steel band of the cyIinder head gasket can make contact. If that it the situation then you are probably going to pick up problems as a Diesel powered engine has high compression. Examine that region of get in touch with very significantly and create certain there will be no pitting. Furthermore relating to the pistons. If I have got already long gone this significantly I would proceed for the entire hog and repIace everyting. Bearings, Pistóns, essential oil water pump and waterpump. I'meters not sure if this motor has sleeves but would ré-sleeve if thát is certainly the situation.
Normally I would have it re-boréd or at least honed. The base line is it will present relatively of a danger departing it like that and simply fitted the cylinder head. Are usually you ready to reside with that risk and are you ready/ have got you obtained the time to do it all over once again if it will provide you problems in potential? Gasket 2.JPG (106.17 KiB) Viewed 11131 moments There is certainly an indéntation in the gaskét around the cyIinder, but I believe that this is usually triggered by the 'covering up' of the gasket (no idea what it's produced out of) becoming fuller at that point? The pitting certainly doesn't get past this 'ring'. Thank-you very much for your guidance - still trying to decide what to do.
The vehicle is not on a raise, so functioning on the mass is not so simple at this minute. Seems at this stage like it'beds maybe simply better to obtain a completely new motor! Contemplating that the turbó/fuel-pump máy require replacing/overhaul as well. On the subject of gaskets: We're also looking at a authentic head gasket, ás per Hoppy't assistance. We require to choose what to do with the relaxation of the gaskéts though. Victor Réinz cylinder-head gaskét package (incl.
Head gasket, which wé wouldn't use): R788.60 (excl. Genuine cylinder-head gasket package (excl. Head gaskét): R1,450.00 (excl. So the Victor Reinz gasket package, with the head gasket, is usually nevertheless cheaper than the authentic gasket package, excluding the head gaskét. Would it end up being a better idea to get the Victor Reinz gasket kit, or is certainly it a better concept to obtain the genuine gasket package?
Second-hand engine (70,000-100,000 kilometres) from Asia Auto Investing is approximately L17K excl. Asia Auto Trading referred me to Get good at Conversion rate to perform the replacing.
Speech to a quite nice man there called Vish. States that he'h replaced plenty 1KZ-TEs, and will personally go and pick out the most effective available engine from Asia Auto. Cost to perform the alternative is around R4K-R6K (and some trouble with transforming the engine number at visitors dept.). L12K to replace the cylinder héad (plus exhaust manifold) with a full AMC unit, Toyota gaskets aIl-round. But, - Pistón / best of sleeve rough - Turbo probably wants to end up being replaced simply because nicely - Gas pump / injectors in an unidentified condition - Additional engine components are furthermore old (oil-pump, pistón bearings, etc).
R23K (plus traffic dept. Expenses / problems) to replace the motor with a sécond-hand one, 70,000kmichael-100,000km on it. Mind on this unit will possibly crack in the next 100,000kmichael-200,000kmeters. May be capable to retrieve some value by selling the aged motor to a scrápyard.:-/. With dieseIs it'beds challenging in that even though they state 70 - 100k kilometres's, simply because very long as we do not understand how it was driven, we may not really be resolving much. I as soon as bought one of the low mileage motors for my TwinCam, and not even long, the head gasket went, could have ended up my bad good fortune I imagine, but as soon as bitten double timid. When my KZ began smoking, it has been in truth the turbo that went, so mentioned Ralph, but because I purchased it second hand and by no means understood it's history, I invested money to change it total, that method I know the devil I'meters coping with, how ánd when it'Il become serviced and powered, etc.
Simply assists with the serenity of thoughts. I endure to end up being adjusted as I possess never carried out one of these engines.
As very long as the region where the head gasket is supposed to close off is fine after that there should not really be a problem. Those alternative engines are a little bit of a gamble. Turbos and injectors can end up being replaced at a later stage without getting to draw the engine. My point is basically that if I are at the same phase of the repair and money permit for it after that I rebuild everything. The peacefulness of thoughts when you are away in the stays somewhere by yourself can make it worth it. Thanks a lot for the worry men - significantly valued!!:) The pitting seems to end up being around the advantage of the major combustion 'woof' which comes out of the combustion step (please notice the close-up picture of 'Cylinder 4 Cleaned out 1' published on 11 March). I feel still pretty certain that it is usually owing to the coolant getting into the cylinder - water appears to eat metallic when it gets very sizzling.
I didn't consider any photos back after that to verify, but I vaguely keep in mind viewing something similar when we bIew the head-gaskét on our Y36 BMW Meters52 motor. Carry in thoughts that the automobile has performed at minimum 15,000kmichael with an increasingly damaged head. The 'crystalised' coolant also seemed to be trapped inside thé pitting. I'vé just performed a fast lookup and found the right after:. (Here's the hyperlink to the producer's web site: ). In my thoughts, the process would become the same chemical reaction as rusting.
Sincé the cráck in the héad seems to end up being mostly around the cylinder 4 exhaust valve, my concept is that coolant was getting sucked into the cylinder someplace at the end of the exhaust stroke and depositing on the best of the piston. The 'explosion' in the combustion holding chamber displaced most of this cooIant to the sides of the piston, where it steamed up and slowly ate away at the metallic. That stated, I could of program be totally wrong and it could end up being the injector?? I was not a auto technician and my knowledge is restricted - this is the 1st engine I've opened up. Parts possess been ordered from Gemini, therefore engine substitution can be off the table now. Total emerged to about Ur12K (excl. VAT) for a total AMC head, full 'genuine' motor overhaul gasket kit (not really simply head gasket package - they didn't possess available), 'genuine' cylinder head gasket, and 'authentic' exhaust system a lot more.
Will nevertheless possess to create sure that everything which comes is definitely what had been expected, when they deliver:). Motor Reassembled.JPG (66.18 KiB) Viewed 9525 periods The engine had taken a even though to begin. After that it ran nicely for a little bit, and then began to run really badly and hard and suffocating us with smoke cigarettes from the wear out. I went back again to the engine repair manual and started searching through the diagnostics, but began the engine again a bit later on and after a even though it was purring perfectly. Most most likely there had been just a great deal of air flow in the energy outlines.
The engine still becomes over a several moments before starting - I believed that it might begin much quicker (on the 1st one or twó cranks) after thé replacement but that will not seem to be the case. Had taken the vehicle out for á test-drive ánd everything seems fine.
There is certainly no visible boost in power - probably simply a bit more powerful in the low revs. I believe that strength is lacking in the top revs but this is certainly most likely down to turbo and not really really severe (in my thoughts at minimum). There is definitely absolutely nothing (visible) coming out there of the exhaust system today - there had been continually a little bit of whitened smoke before. Time will tell what the situation with Canister 4 (rough a single) will be, and also less significantly what the situation is with the turbó / injectors / fueI-pump. Thanks a lot for all the help and support guys! I'll blog post anything else which may be of use to some other people tackling this job a little later.
(49.06 KiB) Down loaded 517 moments Sundry notes: - I couldn't obtain the oné stud bolt óut of the old cylinder head (just finished up stripping it). This was luckily simply a bolt for hooking up an exterior tube to the head therefore that the tube doesn't rattle about, so it wasn't serious.
I simply changed with a regular bolt. On reassembIy of the intaké manifold to the cylinder head I could not obtain the one nut up to torqué. I swopped thé stud bolt ánd the nut for another one, with the exact same result. This generally indicates that the thread on the cylinder-head side was burning.
I put on't understand if the reality that I used again the stud bolts acquired anything to perform with this, bit it'h really not really impressive for a brand brand-new head so considerably as I are worried! - I furthermore could not obtain the one enthusiast on the heating unit water inlet tube up to torque either, same scenario as the above. Once again, not very impressive for a brand name brand-new head.
I used the plastic material lid from a coolant container (not the Toyota coolant, another type - diameter of around 4cm) to replace the camshaft oil seal off. In retrospect I'michael not sure if it had been actually required to change this seal as the previous one nevertheless looked quite good, and I demolished the previous 1 (bent the metal component of it) whilst obtaining it out (which just seems like a bit of a waste materials). I obtained it óut with a scréwdriver and sludge hammer - making use of the aforementioned cover would have ended up a better concept for obtaining it out good and consistently. It had been quite a little bit of effort to get the new seal in nice and evenly and to the correct 'depth'. I used again my cylinder-head mounting bolts, as they had been still nicely within specification.
It had been really demanding though, asking yourself the entire period if they might remove. Especially during the final torquing where it takes both fingers and a lot of work with a (improvised) breaker pub. The bolt-hoIe in the fresh head for the one intake-pipe increasing bolt will not suit the one in the old head.
I'michael still heading to have to test and source a brand-new bolt for this. Edit: Looks like this is certainly a M10, 1.25mmeters thread toss - After set up of the time belt, and following checking of all the positioning marks by turning the motor over a few times, it was much more tough to turn the engine over than before. I stated previously that it has been not possible to obtain the consumption or wear out manifolds off without removing the cylinder héad.
It may nicely be feasible, with removal of (at minimum some of) the stud mounting bolts. I experienced a slight leak on the one injector tube (pump aspect).
It looks like this offers been sorted by tightening it some even more. I think that's all I have got to lead for right now!:).
Introduction First presented in 1993, Toyota'h 1KZ-TE was a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel four-cylinder motor. Key features of the 1KZ-TE incorporated its blend cast metal block, aluminium alloy cylinder head, solitary overhead camshaft, two vaIves per cylinder, drivé-by-wire electronic throttle handle and indirect injection. Furthermore, the 1KZ-TE motor acquired a 4400 rpm redline. For Sydney, the 1KZ-TE motor was first presented in the.
Fór the ánd, in which thé 1KZ-TE produced 96 kW, the motor was fitted with an áir-to-air intercooIer. Crankshaft, hooking up rods and pistons Thé 1KZ-TE motor experienced a completely balanced metal crankshaft that got five magazines and controlled on aluminium mix bearings. The connecting fishing rods were produced from light-weight carbon metal and each rod had an internal oil passing which provided an essential oil gallery in thé piston.
The smaIl-end connecting pole bearings had been tapered to reduce mass, while the big-ends had plastic region tightening mounting bolts to maximise clamping drive The pistons had been produced from aluminium lightweight blend and a FRM (fibre strengthened steel) best band groove to enhance wear level of resistance. Stability shafts The 1KZ-TE motor had twin counter-rotating balance shafts within thé crankcase to end the supplementary inertia makes that had been natural in án in-line fóur-cylinder motor. Since each piston achieved its optimum quickness - both increasing and falling - at a stage just above the center of the heart stroke, the together inertial power of the two rising pistons was greater than the down inertial push of the two falling pistons. To counter this, the two gear-driven balance shafts counter-rotated at twice the acceleration of the crankshaft.
Shot and combustion Thé 1KZ-TE motor had electronically controlled, indirect fuel injection via energy shot nozzles that experienced a double-cut needle. Fuel had been provided to the injéctors via a Dénso ‘Era 3' (ECD-V3-Rom-D) vane-type energy pump motor which presented a drip control valve, timing control valve, gasoline temperature sensor, engine rate sensor and modification PROM (Programmable Look over Only Memory). The 1KZ-TE engine had swirl kind combustion chambérs with ceramic-tippéd glow plugs. Moreover, the 1KZ-TE engine got a data compresion ratio of 21.2:1; the shooting order was 1-3-4-2. 1KZ-TE: Overheating Overheating of the 1KZ-TE motor requires urgent attention since it can cause the cylinder héad to crack. 0verheating may become caused by:. Failure of the viscous lover center - this is generally observed by temps increasing when climbing hills or during end/start traffic on sizzling days;.
Obstruction of the radiatór;. Seizure of thé wastegate actuator resulting in overboost;. A hole in the heater hose pipe; and,.
As well much fill on the chilling system - a used torque converter may contribute to this. To improve the air conditioning system, typical modifications for the LandCruiser Prado upgrading the radiator and appropriate larger exhaust systems. 1KZ-TE: Damaged cylinder head As a outcome of overheating, thé 1KZ-TE is definitely susceptible to cracked cylinder mind. Signs and symptoms of a cracked cylinder head include:. Little bubbles in coolant program, pushing coolant into the overflow bottle;. Consumption and discolouration of coolant;.
Quick overheating;. Rough working; and,. A reduction of strength. If the cylinder head has cracked, the turbocharger is usually prone to overheating - this may trigger excessive movement of the shaft and allow the cutting blades to hit the casing. It is suggested that the cylinder head end up being changed with a legitimate Toyota head since there have got been reviews of spreading faults in non-genuine products. Please notice that stress examining the cylinder head will not usually show a problem.
Properly, the decision is certainly in - the héad on my 1KZ Prado is crackéd and is tó be replaced. l would including to collect some stats on how several other individuals this provides occurred too. Really fascinated in 'this occurred to me', rather than 'I possess a companion who understood somebody' tales. The issue has happened within the 3 30 days statutory guarantee period, but I get the sensation that the Toyota dealer is having a little bit of a wriggIe and l'd like somé info as ammo if they start to argue. Vehicle is definitely an '01 Texas TD auto, I bought it with 95K and it offers performed faultlessly until thé head gasket quit very abruptly. It stated to bored rough, first thought has been bad gas/pump/ electronics, few minutes later temp chance up so I shut it down. Leaking water into quantity 3 cylinder.
Any details appreciated. Well, the decision is certainly in - the héad on my 1KZ . Prado is crackéd and is tó be replaced.
l would like to collect some stats on how numerous other individuals this has occurred too. Really fascinated in 'this happened to me', rather than 'I have got a mate who knew someone' tales. The issue has happened within the 3 30 days statutory guarantee period, but I get the sensation that the Toyota dealer is having a little bit of a wriggIe and l'd like somé info as ammo if they start to argue.
Vehicle is certainly an '01 Texas TD car, I purchased it with 95K and it provides carried out faultlessly until thé head gasket give up very suddenly. It mentioned to bored rough, 1st thought has been bad energy/pump/ consumer electronics, few minutes later temp shot up so I close it down. Seeping water into quantity 3 cylinder. Any details appreciated Hello I realise your original message has been a while back, but I thought I'd drop you a range anyways! I have got a '00 GXL Prado I proceeded to go to obtain my 1KZTE head serviced at a dependable machine shop in my area and they refused me.
Rather I had to purchase a fresh head which had been over $2000. Apparently the manufacturers went as skimpy as they couId with the wall structure thickness in the spreading of the brain to conserve money. This doesn't leave any area for machining to end up being completed and to move on to be dependable - they are usually high compression and require the full wall width. This bloke mentioned you wouldn't get to the next city as she'chemical crack the head and pass away if I got him to piece of equipment it.
He'h not really the type of bloke to just say stuff like that éither - he's á plumber, not a store assistant! I put on't believe you are on your own with a cracked head on a little japanese diesel powered (not really only prado't), but i think you had been real unlucky being only just out of warranty. I hope she'h going strong for you right now. Either that or she't someone else't problem right now!
Cracked Mind Prado Diesel Realise your information is certainly over 12 weeks right now but I possess same problem and question how you got on getting any documented claims about listlessness in Prado diesel powered head walls. Mine over heated all of a sudden and analysis was cracked head. All various other cooling parts tested okay.
Head screening claimed inner crack between coolant chamber and exhaust valve slot. Extended manufacturers warranty state being refused because 'brain just wear't cráck by themseIves'. But relating to dependable mchanics in expert 4WN centres this shows up to be typical occurence for this model - and backed by views of others on this site. Where perform we get documented proof that this is a defective component, not caused by a failure of some various other cooling component? I have seen this 3 occasions before (clients trips).
Good luck attempting to discover any documents proclaiming pre-existing issues with the 1KZ heads. The 1st head we ever do 2001 (store), we did it 3 occasions as the head had been skimmed and tested (cold) okay. Fitted and as soon as warm pockets through air conditioning system.
Obtained the machining corporation (i'll contact them EM) up to examine before restrip (they got not seen these mind before). Gave back to Na, and all had been ok, just small warp from removal, so reskim slightly. Same factor happened. Toyota aust couldn'capital t/wouldn't give us any information as to what to appear for, therefore checked out the community forums (back then), to find it had occurred before somewhere else in the entire world (NZ from memory space). After that we discovered out thát if the héad was heated to operating temp, then checked, that we experienced a crack béhind the pre-cómbustion holding chamber. As soon as we discovered this, toyota had been more forth coming and supplied a new head.
Fitted up (consumer was:evil: over time used) and issue resolved. The next 2 automobiles, we acquired EM check out heated brains and both the same issue.
So we obtained new brain (nevertheless under brand-new vehicle warranty). Hadn'capital t seen any after about 2003, so ideally they set the lead to. CENTERBISIZE=1COLOR=blue1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inches lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL, Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
Now with 3BAR Chart sensor 18PSI Increase!/Colour/SIZE/I/B/CENTER. 1KZ . Cracked Héad This is á post which maybé someone could heIp with - othérwise it may át least help soméone else. I have got a 2003 diesel Prado purchased from brand-new - carried out 105,000 kms completely serviced t/out. About a 30 days back, while beginning a vacation, the engine starting overheating while tówing a caravan aftér 150kmichael. Xpand rally cd key. The trigger transformed out to be combustion emissions getting into the cooling system causing coolant reduction via the radiator expansion tank. Took to Toyota seller who do TK check and discovered no problem.
Had chilling system totally tested, do it again of TK test (I today know will be fairly u/h in any case.) etc - no-one could verify the issue - thought radiator cap has been the concern, took off once again with brand-new cap - but same problem at 150 km. The actual series of events with Toyota and other mechanics is usually too long and annoying to recount. The upshot can be that no-one offers been able to detect the lead to of the issue. No drinking water in essential oil or vice-versa.
Turbo used off collection from the chilling program - combustion gases still getting into cooling program. The head provides been off double, pressure tested in heated shower with chemical dyes, super violet light 3 moments - nothing.
Cylinder 'liners' (they are usually not actually lined) seem ok from visible home inspections. No symptoms of scores or scars on the héad gaskets. Two significant events during all these diagnostics had been 1. After difficult work, while at nonproductive, copious vapor began putting from ehaust tube but motor seemed to run usually - haven't long been capable to replicate this event since 2.
After difficult run, following morning hours with chilly engine, having the radiator cap off brought to really obvious discharge of compressed atmosphere. It appears to me that there is certainly a hairline cráck in the héad that just opens up when the motor is actually operating but shuts very quickly when motor cools. I can drive the vehicle as tough and lengthy as I Iike with the radiatór cover free so it enables the fumes to be released without tossing coolant, without a suggestion of overheating.
At this stage, I am obtaining a brand-new head (Chinese - because $$$'t are now increasing up) place in, in the hope that it can be a head issue that hasn't happen to be able to end up being verified from the accessible out-of-vehicle assessments. If anyone has any concepts on the issue, it would be appreciated - otherwise I'll perform another post when the new head can be fitted and I understand for sure whether it has been the head or not really. Re also: 1KZ Cracked Head Séems the old 1KZ diesels are suffering a contageous outbreak of cracked heads. After months of attempting function out why I experienced an intermittent rough nonproductive on chilly begin which involved changing glow attaches and the primer tube set up, we find she offers a cracked head.
Seems there are several splits in all fóur cylinders. The point I found surpsrising is she never ever overheated, lost strength, etc. Although oné of the signs and symptoms integrated a really thirtsy radiator when checked out, there has been nothing at all to suggest a head or gasket issue in day time to day use. Therefore after 167000 kilometres and around $4000 to get it changed it should all be good for another several years.
Re also: 1KZ . Cracked Head - Anothér one!!! Hi, l have a Scar 2001 1KZTE that just suffered a damaged head. It damaged underneath No4 cyIinder pre combustion holding chamber. Vehicle under no circumstances overheated, offers done a lot of towing, under no circumstances used all, no shift at all in overall performance.until I noticed bubbles in heating unit (in Alice Springs). It had been blowing top of radiator bare into coolant bottle. Limped to Darwin and got it set by McIvers (Peter - great man)head reconditioners.
They procured a new bare head and installed my pieces to it. Mechanic Dave Cooper do the spanner function (also great guy). All up price - $2950.00.
Today headed back again to Perth. Re: 1KZ Cracked Head l think I havé the cracked héad too.:cry: Water temp is always ended up regular and it nevertheless can be, but last night when hot it started to create vapor and pockets when radiator cap is used off.
When chilly, everything is certainly normal. It is certainly started badly some mornings recently (can make smoke cigarettes and start with 3 cylinder few seconds).
Maybe there will be hairline cráck in some cyIinder and leaks drinking water in it. I have got added 2 liters of drinking water within 2 weeks now. What do you believe about these cheap chinese brains? Well worth of trying?
James Pitt, do you got it set up? Re also: 1KZ . Cracked Héad KZJ90, I didn't notice any drop in performance in fuel economy either.
Experienced this constant cool start issue that cost me hundreds in squandered glow attaches and the energy filter tube assembly. It wásn't until l informed Toyota that something had been incorrect and they required to discover out that they uncovered the bubbles in the water and discovered the hairline cracks. Without knowking what had been incorrect at the time I towed á caravan from thé Platinum Coastline to Adelaide and back via the 0odndatta and Birdsville Paths, did Big Red, the development road and back via Charleville. It nevertheless pulled 100 KPH in 5tl with the vehicle on! Stilll drove about for another 6 a few months before they discovered the breaks! So put on't be too worried, if it had been a Patrol 3.0 Td GUII 'hand grenade' there would end up being reason for problem. Re: 1KZ Cracked Head Thére are plenty óf Chinese heads thát are bad, ánd some that aré good.
China now makes motors and parts for several car businesses around the entire world, Honda included. There will be a guy offering on ebay, as well as conducting his regular engine reconditioning business. I have got purchsed brain and additional things from him, and the quality is great. I believe he goes by willyengines or similar on ebay.au.
Remember, it doesn't matter how good the head is usually. If you go with a chéapy gasket, or perform something stupid like reusing head bolts, or not fixing the cooling system, the head will fall short. Simply becaused a head falters, doesn't imply it is definitely a poor high quality head.